It was 7:50 a.m. on a cold, wet Friday in November when we turned off a two-lane road into Goldee's BBQ in southeast Fort Worth, Texas. A year had passed since Texas Monthly Magazine ranked Goldee's Barbecue number one in the state. Kel and I knew the long lines that resulted from a BBQ joint being awarded the top spot.
Ten months earlier, we waited three hours in the cold at Franklin Barbecue in East Austin. Franklin was already well-known in 2013, but its ranking as #1 on the Texas Monthly list the same year only increased the demand for its fatty brisket.
Spending a morning at Franklin taught me that the best Texas barbecue is worth waiting for and that the time spent in line is a part of the experience.
It builds anticipation, influences your enjoyment of the food, provides time to socialize with other barbecue fans, and leaves you with a fun story. Before I share how we passed our three-hour wait at Goldee's BBQ, here's a little background on the burgeoning barbecue business.
Table of Contents
About Goldee's BBQ
This story is about friendship, the Texas barbecue community, hard work, and resilience. Goldee's owners (Jalen Heard, Nupohn Inthanousay, Lane Milne, Dylan Taylor, and Jonny White) have known each other since childhood, as they grew up together in Arlington, Texas. Arlington is a city sandwiched between Dallas to the east and Fort Worth to the west.
After high school, the five friends moved south to Central Texas and began taking jobs with some of the best pitmasters in the country. They worked at top Austin barbecue places (including Franklin's, Valentina's, and La Barbecue) and 2M Smokehouse in San Antonio for years.
Then, the friends combined their knowledge, skills, and resources to pursue the dream of owning their own barbecue restaurant. They traded Austin for Fort Worth and found an abandoned building on the outskirts of town amid a stretch of Dick Price Road with concrete and gravel suppliers as neighbors.
The Early Years
Goldee's BBQ, named after the golden Ford F-250 pickup truck used to tow its first barbecue pit, opened its doors in February 2020. At the time, it was selling four to six briskets a day, about double what pitmaster Leonard Botello IV was selling when he began Truth BBQ in 2015. By comparison, a well-established restaurant like Franklin Barbecue makes 100 briskets a day.
Then, the pandemic hit, putting the survival of the friends' new venture in question. Like many restaurants, they pivoted to a take-out operation. In spring 2021, they reopened for dine-in service; by October 2021, Goldee's was declared the best barbecue joint in the Lone Star State.
After the new list came out, 200-300 people per day began lining up to eat at Goldee's BBQ restaurant. Demand hasn't let up since. Their brisket per day count is up to 50, and they reliably sell out by 3 p.m. the days they're open (Friday, Saturday, and Sunday).
Our Experience
When we arrived, it was in the mid-50s and pouring rain, so Kel and I were in no hurry to leave the car. We weren't the only ones trying to stay warm, either. Several barbecue devotees had arrived before us, and we all delayed the need to line up until someone made the first move.
The Line
Around 8 a.m., a young couple celebrating a birthday claimed the coveted first and second spots at the beginning of the line. Reed, a friendly guy from Florida on a week-long tour of the best BBQ in Texas, was next. We'd learn he does backyard barbecues and pop-ups at home.
Kel and I were fourth and fifth, which was a strong showing! We hadn't brought lawn chairs, so I was relieved to find a half-dozen under the awning keeping us dry.
The rain continued throughout the morning, and the wind made it uncomfortably cold. My body physically shivered at times. I wondered if the weather would keep people away—silly me.
The line at Goldee's BBQ continued to grow, with a steady stream of new arrivals. By 10 a.m., an hour before opening, the line was at least 50 people long, snaking along the edge of the parking lot and through the smokehouse.
A large white Yeti cooler in the parking lot provided free beer and bottled water. Many people took advantage of this despite getting wet on the walk there. We spent hours talking with the friendly folks in front of us, all of whom we shared a table with once we got our barbecue trays.
Goldee's BBQ Menu
We also spent a decent amount of time contemplating what to order from Goldee's BBQ menu. Everything we needed was written on a whiteboard outside the front door.
How much does Goldee's BBQ cost?
Smoked meat is priced per half-pound (8 ounces), and you can order less than a half-pound if you wish; all prices are subject to change.
- $16 brisket
- $14 pork ribs
- $14 pulled pork
The beef ribs cost $35 per pound, and the jalapeno and cheese sausage cost $6 per link. I've seen mentions of smoked turkey online, but it wasn't available the day we were there.
Sides are priced by size ($5 small, $10 medium, $18 large) and include:
- Potato salad
- Coleslaw
- Beans
- Cheesy grits
- Kennedale stew (pork gravy over white rice)
Goldee's makes its white bread from scratch. And since it's not the typical store-bought variety, you can't ask for more than they give you for free. However, they sell their bread by the loaf if you want to take some home.
Desserts include their signature banana pudding. Bread pudding is available on Sundays only, and both desserts are about $4 or $5. Sodas and bottled waters are $2 each. However, if you're only interested in water, grab a complimentary bottle before reaching the front line.
Dining Room
Goldee's BBQ opened on time at 11 a.m., allowing us to step inside the modest joint for the first time. We were greeted by several of the owners, all friendly and chatty, as we placed our orders and paid our bills. No phones are allowed while ordering, a way to keep the line moving efficiently.
Kel and I ordered the following:
- ¼ pound of brisket
- ¼ pound of pork ribs (two ribs)
- 1 beef rib
- 1 sausage
- Kennedale stew
- Cheese grits
- Banana pudding
The bill was about $100, plus I left a 20% tip, bringing our total to $120. We took half back to our accommodation as leftovers and used them for another meal (the price was about $30 per serving).
Brisket
The best BBQ in Texas begins with brisket, and Goldee's delivers. Their simple, well-executed Central Texas barbecue brisket melts in your mouth. Like many of the best barbecue joints, they rely on Texas post-oak wood and simple seasonings.
The crew at Goldee's shares their knowledge in a monthly brisket class taught at the restaurant. Instruction covers barbecuing brisket, including how to trim and season, manage the fire, render fat, know when it's done, and slice and plate it. Despite the $1,000 per person price, Goldee's BBQ brisket class is regularly sold out.
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Beef Rib
As much as I enjoyed their brisket, Goldee's beef rib was the scene-stealer. This giant hunk of smoked meat on a bone was well worth the $35 price tag. The beef was so tender that my plastic fork had no trouble scraping it off the bone. I must add that the photos don't do justice to the amount of meat you're given, nor the richness of each juicy bite.
Pork Ribs and Sausage
Goldee's BBQ pork ribs were on par with what I've experienced at other top barbecue restaurants, which is to say, okay. I order them everywhere, but I've not had a spiritual experience with pork ribs (unlike the best brisket and beef ribs).
Since sausage is usually cheaper, I also try it, but I rarely finish it. I dislike the chewiness of the casings, not the flavors of the meat fillings. That was my experience at Goldee's, though I've read plenty of write-ups that rave about their Laotian sausage with sticky rice.
Sides and Dessert
The jalapeno cheese grits were delicious, though we barely made a dent in the medium-sized container at the restaurant. I wish I could say the same for the Kennedale stew (pork gravy on rice); it was rather bland.
On a high note, we ended our lunch at Goldee's BBQ in Fort Worth with spoonfuls of creamy banana pudding. The smooth texture, bits of vanilla wafer, and hints of cinnamon made it stand out from the many others I've tried across Texas lately.
Final Thoughts
During our time in line, we learned that a recent documentary that goes behind the scenes at Goldee's BBQ has further contributed to its popularity. When I got home from Fort Worth, I watched the well-edited "Day In The Life of The #1 BBQ in Texas," which went viral with 8 million views in its first four months.
Watching the movie gave me a better sense of how much time, energy, and teamwork it takes to run an award-winning barbecue joint. If you're in Fort Worth or plan to visit the city, check out Goldee's BBQ.
4645 Dick Price Rd, Fort Worth, TX, goldeesbbq.com
Update: Goldee's dropped from #1 to #3 in Texas Monthly's 2025 list of the top 50 BBQ joints in the state.
