• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
Feastio
  • Restaurants
  • Bars
  • About
  • Navigation Menu: Social Icons

    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • Twitter
menu icon
go to homepage
  • About
  • Blog
  • USA
  • Subscribe
  • Contact
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • Twitter
  • subscribe
    search icon
    Homepage link
    • About
    • Blog
    • USA
    • Subscribe
    • Contact
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • Twitter
  • ×

    Home » Denmark

    Geranium: One of the Best Restaurants in Copenhagen

    Updated Nov 4, 2021 by Dave Lee | 11 minute read | May contain affiliate links

    The opportunity to celebrate my birthday at Geranium, one of the best restaurants in Copenhagen, was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

    My time in the Danish capital was part of a three-week trip to Scandinavia for the Adventure Travel World Summit.

    Following two weeks in Sweden, I hopped a high-speed train to Denmark and began exploring the best bakeries in Copenhagen.

    To warm up for the three-star Michelin experience at Geranium, I had a terrific dinner at one-star Relae the night before.

    Entrance to Geranium restaurant in Copenhagen

    On September 25, with high expectations and a healthy appetite, I arrived via Uber at the restaurant ranked #5 on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list for 2019.

    It was a few minutes before noon. I took the non-descript elevator to Danish chef-owner Rasmus Kofoed's much-lauded Geranium restaurant.

    Geranium occupies the northern corner on the 8th floor of Telia Parken, the soccer stadium for FC Copenhagen and the Danish national team.

    The main dining room at Geranium, one of the best restaurants in Copenhagen
    The main dining room

    The main dining room looks out over a green space called Fælledparken (Common Gardens).

    Later, on a restaurant tour, I saw that one of the prep kitchens has an inside view of the stadium's soccer pitch.

    Speaking of the dining room, it's modern, spacious, and brightly lit (even on an overcast day) thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows.

    Most of the tables line the perimeter, with a few occupying spaces in the center.

    Related: World's Best Restaurants: 15 Fine Dining Experiences

    The open kitchen at Geranium
    Kitchen at Geranium

    As one of the first guests for lunch that day, I was shown to my table near the open kitchen.

    The spot was close to the action and gave me a full 180-degree view of the room.

    To my left, I could watch the chefs at work.

    Looking forward and to the right, I could see most of the other diners that afternoon.

    At 12:02 pm, I was presented with a moist towel to cleanse my hands.

    A handsome leather folder with a gold letter cutter and paper envelope with a red wax stamp followed.

    If I wanted to know the day's menu, I could slide metal through the paper to reveal all.

    And that's just what I did, as I was excited to share the meal live on Instagram.

    The Autumn Universe

    The first five courses on the 2019 Autumn Universe tasting menu were labeled appetizers.

    Appetizers

    Crispy Jerusalem artichoke leaves
    Jerusalem artichoke leaves
    Walnut sauce for dipping
    Walnut sauce

    To begin the multi-course meal at Geranium, crispy Jerusalem artichoke leaves were presented with a pretty walnut dipping sauce.

    The three delicate leaves set the stage for a lunch where attention to detail and execution was the rule, not the exception.

    Cucumber water, ham fat, and snail eggs
    Cucumber water, ham fat, and snail eggs
    "Razor clam" with minerals and sour cream
    "Razor clam" with minerals and sour cream

    The third appetizer was a single faux razor clam filled with minerals and sour cream.

    The shell, made of pastry dough, was edible, and the custom plate it was presented on was just as fascinating as the food.

    Cep mushroom soup with walnuts and pears
    Cep mushroom soup with walnuts and pears
    Tableside preparation
    Tableside preparation
    Lobster and milky cheese with juice from fermented carrots and sea buckthorn
    Lobster and milky cheese

    The fifth and final appetizer was prepared tableside by my affable Greek waiter -- lobster and milky cheese with juice from fermented carrots and sea buckthorn.

    The ratio of restaurant staff to diners at Geranium is 1:1, meaning for every customer, there is one staff member.

    In addition to the waiter assigned to my table, I was also served by various chefs and other staff.

    The well-orchestrated service exemplified teamwork and appeared effortless throughout my three-hour lunch.

    Monnières - Saint Fiacre, a French white by Domaine de la Pépière
    A glass of Monnières - Saint Fiacre from France

    Geranium has an award-winning wine program led by Søren Ledet, an advanced sommelier who is also a co-owner of Geranium along with chef Rasmus Kofoed.

    While I skipped the wine pairing, I couldn't help but indulge in one glass to enjoy with the next few courses

    I left the decision to the staff, who brought me a glass of 2013 Monnières - Saint Fiacre by Domaine de la Pépière, a pleasant French white wine from Brittany.

    Dishes

    Scallop "red stones" and horseradish
    Scallops and horseradish

    The first course following the appetizers was scallop "red stones" and horseradish.

    This beautifully presented dish featured three flower-covered scallops on black rocks.

    I love it when chefs use edible flowers, and apparently, that's part of Kofoed's aesthetic because they were plentiful from this point in the menu.

    Pickled celeriac with sol, dried mussels, and aromatic seeds
    Pickled celeriac with sol, dried mussels, and aromatic seeds
    A spoonful of lightly pickled celeriac and seeds
    A spoonful of celeriac and seeds
    Hake, caviar, and buttermilk
    Hake, caviar, and buttermilk

    Geranium restaurant's signature "marbled" hake with caviar and buttermilk sauce was one of my favorite dishes of the day.

    The round glass bowl was set down at the table with merely a sliver of white hake, upon which numerous spoonfuls of buttermilk sauce with caviar were poured.

    The result was as artistic and colorful a presentation of fish as I've ever seen.

    Crispy grains, bread with old grains, and bread with seeds
    Crispy grains, bread with old grains, and bread with seeds

    Interestingly, it wasn't until this point, almost halfway through the meal, that bread and butter were served.

    I appreciated their thoughtful approach to ensuring customers aren't filling up on pieces of bread too soon.

    And it's a good thing, too, because I ended up eating it all.

    The butter was silky smooth and easily spreadable, making the experience all the better.

    Creamy trout, citrus herbs, and fermented cauliflower
    Trout, herbs, and cauliflower

    Before I could finish devouring the bread, a bowl of creamy trout with citrus herbs and fermented cauliflower was presented with a gold spoon.

    I ate it up in a few bites before finishing off the bread and wine.

    Oyster tartlet with cucumber and truffle seaweed
    Oyster tartlet with cucumber and truffle seaweed
    Dried and pickled onions, onion plants, and melted "Vesterhavs" cheese
    Dried and pickled onions, onion plants, and melted "Vesterhavs" cheese
    Lamb, aromatic herbs, truffle, and pickled pine
    Lamb, aromatic herbs, truffle, and pickled pine

    By the time the lamb with black truffles arrived, I'd already been spoiled by a dozen expertly-prepared dishes.

    Once again, the presentation delighted me, the lamb holding 11 thinly-sliced discs of fresh black truffle and flowers for color.

    Geranium Restaurant Tour

    Following my thirteenth course of the lunch, my waiter offered me a tour of the restaurant, saying, "there are no secrets at Geranium."

    I would typically wait until the end of a meal to ask, so it came as a pleasant surprise to be offered before dessert was served.

    Naturally, I jumped at the chance to go behind the scenes at one of the best restaurants in Copenhagen.

    Gold, silver, and bronze Bocuse d'Or awards
    Gold, silver, and bronze Bocuse d'Or awards

    We began in the lounge at the opposite end of the dining room from the kitchen.

    On proud display in a glass case, there are the three Bocuse d'Or trophies won by Rasmus Kofoed.

    The Bocuse d'Or is a French competition, a culinary Olympics of sorts.

    Chef Kofoed is the only person to win all three awards -- bronze (2005), silver (2007), and gold (2011).

    While he wasn't working in the kitchen the day I was there, I certainly felt his spirit and influence throughout the menu.

    Liquors
    Liquor selection
    Geranium's wine storage
    Wine cellar (note the saber resting on the counter)

    Next, I was led through Geranium's wine cellar, which looked nicely organized.

    The other side opens into the Inspiration Kitchen, a private dining room and kitchen that can be reserved for 16 guests.

    I believe it was in here that I also caught a glimpse of the dry-age room.

    Various meats were hung to age; the top shelf was lined with jars of food items being either pickled or fermented (maybe both).

    FC Copenhagen soccer pitch as seen from one of the prep kitchens
    FC Copenhagen soccer pitch as seen from one of the prep kitchens

    We left Inspiration Kitchen and entered a larger prep kitchen with a view of the soccer pitch used by FC Copenhagen and Denmark's national team.

    Even though four support pillars partially block the view, the concept alone was fantastic regardless of practicality.

    The tour ended at the kitchen in the main dining room.

    Desserts

    Beetroot, blackcurrant, yoghurt, and tagetes
    Beetroot, blackcurrant, yogurt, and tagetes
    Wood sorrel and woodruff
    Wood sorrel and woodruff

    From the first bite of beetroot, blackcurrant, yogurt, and tagetes, it was clear lunch would finish strong.

    Wood sorrel and woodruff, two types of plants, were wistfully displayed in a bowl with a branch made of chocolate.

    Beeswax and pollen ice cream with grilled rhubarb and blueberries
    Beeswax and pollen ice cream with rhubarb and blueberries
    Caramel with roasted grains and frozen chamomile tea
    Caramel with roasted grains and frozen chamomile tea

    Among all the creative desserts, my favorite was the beeswax and pollen ice cream with grilled rhubarb and blueberries.

    The flavor and smooth texture of the ice cream were incredible.

    To extend my birthday lunch a little longer, I ordered a coffee, which was prepared tableside.

    Coffee

    Tableside coffee prep
    Tableside coffee prep
    Geranium serves their own coffee produced by Coffee Collective
    Coffee break

    Geranium restaurant serves coffee produced by Coffee Collective, a Danish roaster.

    Before my birthday, I'd met a chef friend who'd been working in the fermentation lab at Noma over the summer.

    We caught up over coffee and sourdough bread at one of Coffee Collective's Copenhagen cafes.

    Birthday Cake

    Surprise birthday cake
    Surprise birthday cake
    Layered birthday cake
    Layered birthday cake

    Seeing as how I'd be dining alone, it was on me to mention I'd be celebrating my birthday.

    I did this in writing when making the reservation online and casually mentioned it again in person upon being seated.

    So after 17 courses, including four desserts, I wasn't sure there'd be anything extra offered.

    And then it happened, an oval-shaped birthday cake with chocolate, a red rose, and a candle were brought out. I felt like a five-year-old kid again.

    I made a wish (which I've since forgotten, of course) and blew out the candle.

    The cake was big enough to save two, and it was so good. I ate both portions!

    But wait, there's more.

    Sweets

    Marshmallow with rosehip and dried strawberries
    Marshmallow with rosehip and dried strawberries
    Green egg with pine
    Green egg with pine

    Two small sweets were presented. The green chocolate truffle was my favorite of the two. I even liked it more than some of the desserts.

    It was now 3:15 pm, and the kitchen team had begun cleaning up as tables started to pay and leave.

    On the other hand, I was in no rush to leave Geranium (or Copenhagen for that matter).

    I preferred to linger, digest, and soak up the refined atmosphere for as long as possible.

    Perhaps to no reader's surprise, my waiter invited me to stay as long as I wanted.

    Pictures in the Kitchen

    Posing in Geranium's kitchen after lunch
    Posing in Geranium's kitchen

    He also offered to take my photo in the kitchen as the food had all been served.

    Not a minute later, he suggested a group photo with the chefs, something I wouldn't have suggested on my own but was thrilled to accept.

    Dave with chefs at Geranium in Copenhagen
    Dave with chefs at Geranium

    Final Thoughts

    Given the accolades, I had high expectations for my birthday lunch at Geranium in Copenhagen.

    The team over-delivered in every way. The food, atmosphere, and hospitality were all world-class.

    The only other three-star Michelin restaurant I've eaten at so far was Eleven Madison Park in New York City.

    Geranium was a step above that experience in terms of menu creativity, service (I liked that some courses are served by chefs), and overall atmosphere (it's a smaller space and more casual).

    What are the prices like for a meal at Geranium restaurant, you might be wondering?

    Well, they're posted publicly on the website, so it was no surprise that my 17-course Autumn Universe tasting menu was 2,600 DKK (262 euro, or about $450 based on the exchange rate at the time).

    The glass of wine was an extra 120 DKK (€12, $18). And I just noticed as I write this that they didn't charge me for the coffee.

    As it was one of the best meals of my life, I consider it money well spent.

    Plan Your Visit

    geranium.dk

    Address: Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8., DK-2100 Copenhagen, Denmark

    Hours: from October 1 to April 30, lunch is available from 12 pm to 4 pm, and dinner is 7 pm to midnight, Wednesday through Saturday; from May 1 to September 30, Geranium is open Tuesday through Saturday with the same hours.

    Dress code: none stated; I recommend smart casual

    Reservations: recommended and accepted up to 90 days in advance -- make a reservation

    Cost: 2,700 DKK for the Spring 2020 tasting menu, 1,000 DKK for juice pairing, 1,600 DKK for the least expensive wine pairing, and 15,000 DKK for the "rare and unique" wines

    « Restaurant Relae: Sustainable Fine Dining
    Amass Restaurant: Matt Orlando's Approach to Zero Waste »
    265 shares
    • Share
    • Tweet

    About Dave Lee

    I'm a full-time travel and food blogger who has visited 65 countries and lived in Colombia and Peru. Currently based in Austin, TX. Follow me on Instagram or Facebook for daily adventures.

    Primary Sidebar

    Dave Lee

    Hi, I'm Dave, the Chief Eater at Feastio. I'm a travel blogger on a mission to find the world's best food. About Feastio.

    Footer

    ^ back to top

    About

    • About Feastio
    • Archive
    • Resources
    • Privacy Policy
    • Cookie Policy

    Newsletter

    • Subscribe

    Contact

    • Contact

    Copyright © 2020 Feastio

    265 shares
    • 262