Every Saturday morning, barbecue fans from around the country line up in the pre-dawn hours for a chance to eat brisket for breakfast at Snow's BBQ in Lexington, TX. Over the last 20+ years, the two-time winner of Texas Monthly's best BBQ joint in Texas has developed a devoted following.
Unlike other top-tier barbecue spots like Franklin in Austin and Goldee's in Fort Worth, Snow's BBQ is only open on Saturdays and at 8 a.m. Because Texas barbecue joints often close once they've sold all their meat for the day, customers show up early—sometimes very early. After Snow's BBQ first claimed the No. 1 spot in 2007, people began lining up as early as 3 a.m.
(photo by Kelly Lemons)
My interest in Snow's BBQ grew after I saw its beloved pitmaster, Norma Frances "Tootsie" Tomanetz, profiled in Episode 1 of Chef's Table: BBQ (Netflix, 2020). Her work ethic, even in her mid-eighties, was admirable. Today, at 89, she continues to work the BBQ pit every Saturday morning.
Still, waking up incredibly early and driving to Lexington (pop: 1,217), 50 miles east of Austin, felt like a tall task. Since I met Kel, we'd traveled to barbecue spots as far away as Evie Mae's in Lubbock (West Texas) and Vera's in South Texas but still hadn't made it to Snow's.
That all changed on the first Saturday of December 2024. Despite wintry weather, we finally did it. I'm here to share the whole story—from pulling up to Snow's at 4:50 a.m. to posing for a photo with Miss Tootsie—after enjoying our barbecue hours earlier than ever before. But first, I'd like to share a little more about Tootsie, the "Queen of Texas BBQ," and how she came to work at Snow's.
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Meet Tootsie Tomanetz
Norma Frances Tomanetz was born in 1935 in Lexington, TX. According to an interview on barbecuewife.com, her family lived on a farm three miles outside of town, where they "raised corn, cotton, maize, peanuts, cattle, and hogs. "
As she says in her Chef's Table profile, they didn't have the money to buy food in grocery stores and relied on what they could raise and grow on their farm. That included canning peaches and slaughtering hogs. Her family didn't have electricity until 1942. She credits her parents with instilling a strong work ethic from an early age.
She graduated high school in 1953, married an Army veteran, Edward "White" Tomanetz, in 1956, and had three children. While White worked as a butcher at the City Meat Market in nearby Giddings in 1966, Tootsie began to help out around the shop. Over ten years, she learned how to work the meat counter and cook barbecue under pitmaster Orange Holloway Sr., known for his sausage-making.
When the owner of City Meat Market bought another shop in Lexington, he asked White and Tootsie to run it. A year into their stewardship, they purchased the shop and continued running it for another 20 years. On Saturdays, whatever meat didn't sell by the end of the week was barbecued for the community, thus kicking off a weekly tradition.
After Tootsie's husband experienced a stroke, they had to close the meat market to focus on his recovery. He passed away on December 8, 2015, after which she began working as a custodian at the high school in Giddings.
Joining Snow's
Around this time, Kerry "Snow" Bexley approached her about opening a new barbecue joint on Main Street by an old peanut mill. Undeterred by the hard work involved, Tootsie agreed to be a pitmaster, and on March 1, 2003, Snow's BBQ opened for business.
Tootsie continued to work at the high school in Giddings during the week and woke up at 1 a.m. to drive to Lexington to cook for Snow's BBQ on Saturdays. While the new barbecue spot drew customers locally, it wasn't until Texas Monthly named it the #1 BBQ joint in Texas that it began attracting customers by the hundreds.
Our Experience at Snow's BBQ
Arrival and Parking
To make getting there a little easier, Kel and I spent Friday night in Giddings, which gave us a chance to eat at City Meat Market, where Tootsie got her start. At 4 a.m. on December 7, my phone alarm went off, and we hopped out of bed, put on our warmest clothes and jackets, and made the 20-minute drive north to Snow's BBQ in Lexington.
As I drove west on Second Street, I spotted the restaurant and made a right on Main Street. I wasn't sure where we would park since Google Maps showed no apparent spaces. But when we arrived, a dozen cars and pickup trucks lined both sides of Main Street.
I drove a little further north toward the town square and ensured I was parking in a spot that didn't block a driveway or local business. It was about 4:50 a.m., with overcast skies, a temperature of 43F (6C), and an even colder wind chill. In the darkness, I could hear cows mooing and chickens clucking.
The line started just beyond the glow of Snow's fluorescent white patio lights. Groups of customers were hanging out in collapsible camping chairs around four fires lit by the staff. Kel and I walked to the end and were #31 and #32 in line.
Waiting in Line
5 a.m. to 7:30 a.m.
We knew the cold temperatures and threat of rain would play in our favor concerning the length of the line, and we were willing to brave the elements for the advantage. I was happy to see some fires burning, making sitting and standing in the cold for three hours more bearable. Large umbrellas were planted in the ground, which would be helpful once the rain arrived.
Snow's BBQ provides camping chairs near the front door, but most diners appeared to have brought their own. The scene felt much like what you might expect from a winter camping trip. And had it been snowing, I assure you there still would've been people lined up there. Bathrooms were open and available, offering a few minutes of warmth per visit.
It was so early in the morning that I didn't feel particularly chatty. Kel was bundled up and watching shows on her phone while I listened to music on AirPods. In those first few hours before the sky began to lighten around 6:45 a.m., I was content to hang out, take photos, and stay warm.
At 5:30 a.m., Snow's BBQ began playing music through an outdoor speaker. The people who were first in line were allowed to relocate to the roofed area in front of the main entrance. And with the line moving up, Kel and I sat closer to the fires.
The brightening sky was welcome but didn't raise the colder-than-usual temperature. Rain had been a threat in those early hours; however, Lexington managed to doge the squalls until about 7:10 a.m.
People continued trickling in after us, and the line eventually extended around the smokers. However, by 7:30 a.m., there might have been only one hundred people there rather than the several hundred they could see on a warmer day.
Around 7:15 a.m., owner Kerry Bexley had everyone in line count off in numerical order for a raffle. By this time, two gentlemen had joined a friend in line ahead of us, so we were officially #33 and #34. Kerry would periodically call out a number, and the winner would receive a prize, such as a Yeti cooler or swag from the gift shop.
7:30 a.m. to 8:30 a.m.
At 7:30 a.m., as light rain kept those in line huddled together under umbrellas, Snow's BBQ played the U.S. national anthem, The Star-Spangled Banner. This gesture of reverence was followed by AC/DC's "Thunderstruck" and the opening of the outdoor bar and gift shop.
A cold can of Lone Star beer might sound like a hard sell in 43-degree weather, but they had takers. A Snow's Sunrise Bloody Mary with Tito's Vodka and a Still Austin Bourbon with raspberry lemonade were also available. Had it been warmer, I would've gotten a drink, too.
As best I could tell, Snow's BBQ opened its front door around 7:45 a.m., allowing the first people in line to go inside and warm up while ordering. This allowed us to jump from an umbrella to the awning over the front door.
Despite the shelter, it was so cold and windy that I was physically shivering. We'd been outside in the elements for three hours, and it was starting to wear on me. It was another 45 minutes before we could walk inside and warm up.
Snow's BBQ Menu
It was 8:30 a.m. when we entered Snow's BBQ and saw the whiteboard menu and their barbecued meats for the first time. The three exuberant guys ahead of us were indecisive but ultimately ordered tons of food, each paying individually. The line ground to a halt, but at least we were inside.
How much does Snow's BBQ cost?
At Snow's BBQ, you pay for meat by the pound and can order as much or as little as you like. They accept credit cards. A sign-out front advertises a 5% discount if you pay cash. Prices are subject to change.
- Brisket: $32 per pound
- Pork ribs: $26 per pound
- Turkey breast: $26 per pound
- Pork shoulder steak: $19 per pound
- Sausage (regular or jalapeno): $19 per pound
- Chicken (per half): $9.50
If you prefer your smoked meats in sandwich form, they're available for $13 apiece. Homemade sides include the basics (potato salad, cole slaw, and beans) for $3.50 per serving or $7.50 per pint. A bag of chips costs one buck, and banana pudding is $3.50. Non-alcoholic drinks, including iced tea in a souvenir cup and a soda or water bottle, are $2.50.
Ordering
Behind us was a father with his young daughter from West Texas; it was their third visit, and he told us the pork shoulder steak was better than the brisket. So, when the staff behind the counter put up some hot samples for us to try, I didn't hesitate. The juicy slice of pork would be my favorite bite of breakfast.
When it was our turn, I ordered:
- ½ lb brisket
- 1 lb pork ribs
- ½ lb pork shoulder steak
- ½ link of jalapeno sausage
- A pint of potato salad
- A serving of beans
- One banana pudding
The total cost was $97, not including gratuity. Customers who buy the beans serve themselves from the pot near the register, and everyone can take as much sliced white bread as they like.
We were given two pieces of butcher paper. These were intended as plates to eat off once we reached a picnic table. More importantly, they shielded our food from the rain because, unbeknownst to me, we had to exit the heated building and walk around it to reach the covered patio. Once we stepped outside, the clock was ticking on the warmth of our barbecue.
Breakfast on the Patio
It was about 8:45 a.m. when we sat down at one of the nine tables provided by Snow's BBQ. They're situated next to the smokers, which adds to the ambiance. Terry and Tootsie were present and open to answering questions and posing for photos. Due to the weather, we took fewer photos than usual before eating.
The Meats
I began with the brisket, as I always do. It didn't take long to realize we'd received lean brisket, as it lacked the sumptuous texture of fatty brisket. Kel remembered the customer ahead of us had explicitly ordered "lean" brisket, and I realized I didn't specify "fatty" when I ordered. As best we can tell, it was assumed we wanted the lean brisket, too; I hadn't been asked about our preference.
(photo by Kelly Lemons)
Unfortunately, this impacted our experience, as Snow's BBQ is best known for its beef brisket. At that point, we could do nothing except enjoy the meats before us. The pork ribs were delicious, and the jalapeno sausage filling had the same rough texture we enjoyed at City Meat Market in Giddings. The leftovers for both stood up well to reheating at home. I enjoyed the pork shoulder steak immensely when it was fresh, but it tasted bland the day after.
Sides and Dessert
The potato salad and beans were solid. The banana pudding was so thin that I could drink the leftovers from the cup the next day (not that it stopped me).
The limited sides and dessert reminded me of Franklin Barbecue. At these older joints, the emphasis is on perfecting the meats, whereas newer spots like InterStellar and Burnt Bean Company seem more open to experimenting with their sides and desserts.
At 9 a.m., a little more than four hours after we arrived at Snow's BBQ, Tootsie graciously posed for a photo with us, and we began the one-hour drive back to Austin.
Related: Top BBQ in Austin
Final Thoughts
Making the trip out to Snow's BBQ was memorable for many reasons. We warmed up with a barbecue lunch at City Meat Market in Giddings the day before, getting a taste of where Tootsie learned to become a pitmaster.
We endured unseasonably cold temperatures and the pouring rain to eat at one of Texas's most respected barbecue joints. And we got a glimpse of the legendary Tootsie in action. Even though I didn't talk to many people in line, I could feel and appreciate the sense of community at this special place.
We also learned a few lessons the hard way. Kel and I waited three hours in 40- and 50-degree temps to dine at Franklin and Goldee's. But, critically, they both have heated indoor seating. Our meats were warm when we began eating them, even though we spent more time taking photos. Taking bites of the fatty brisket and beef ribs at both places was transcendental.
I can't say that we had the same experience at Snow's BBQ, but I'm giving them the benefit of the doubt. We went on a cold day, not knowing they didn't have indoor seating until we arrived, and we failed to specify fatty brisket at the counter. We will have to return during a warmer time of the year and give it another try, even if it means waiting in a longer line.
Snow's BBQ is open Saturdays only, from 8 a.m. until they sell out. 516 Main St, Lexington, TX, snowsbbq.com
