When I made dinner plans during a spring visit to Seattle, Atoma in the Wallingford neighborhood was at the top of my list. The restaurant, co-owned by chef Johnny Courtney (formerly of Canlis) and his wife, operations director Sarah Courtney, has been earning serious buzz.
It was named a finalist for the 2025 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant and featured on Esquire's 2024 list of the best new restaurants in America. With that kind of praise, I couldn't resist treating myself to a solo dinner. I'd read the accolades. Now it was time to see what all the fuss was about for myself.
My Uber dropped me off outside the converted Craftsman house at 5 p.m. on a Friday. I walked through the small front patio and up the stairs to the front door. It felt like I was walking into someone's home.
The previous occupant was Tilth, an organic farm-to-table restaurant by Maria Hines that closed in October 2020 after 14 years and a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Northwest.
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Dinner at Atoma
Inside Atoma, I was immediately struck by the small size of this Seattle restaurant. I could see straight past the host stand to the bar, and into the tiny kitchen. A few diners were already seated at tables as Atoma opens at 4:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.
Since I had a reservation, I was shown to a two-person table in a dining room adjacent to the main space. I did not want to feel alone for such a delicious occasion, so I asked to sit at the bar instead.
I sat at the far left end of the bar, next to the window, and immediately felt immersed in the action behind the bar and the open kitchen. The friendly bartender introduced himself and provided a welcome drink and savory snacks.
The music was hip-hop, and I felt my age, not recognizing any of it (I'm a '90s guy). I Shazam'd a few of the tunes and came up with The Spins by Mac Miller, Yup by Young Gravy, and Red Rover by Little Stranger.
I was reminded of an article I read earlier in the month, titled "Tasting menus and expletives: When fine dining meets hip-hop."
Drinks
Turning to the drink menu, I was happy to see five zero-proof options front and center. On the right page, seven house cocktails, priced from $20 to $25.
I honed in on Missing Miraflores, a well-balanced pisco cocktail with Clear Creek Plum Brandy, egg white, citrus, and housemade plum brine.
I always miss Miraflores, a coastal district home to some of Lima's best restaurants, where I've spent significant time since 2011.
Dinner Menu
Chef Johnny Courtney's seasonal dinner menus at Atoma in Seattle are concise. They begin with three snack-size options, each offering a few bites. First on the list is their famous rosette cookie, with its paper-thin fried dough encasing fresh farmer's cheese and Walla Walla onion jam.
I'm not one to pass up a customer favorite, and I can see why it's so lauded. It's crunchy, creamy, sweet, and savory, and comes in a fun design.
The radish cakes are another stalwart of this Seattle restaurant. At the time of my visit, a shallot tarte tatin with foie gras was also on the menu.
The second grouping of dishes is small plates, such as a Dungeness crab with almond milk vadouvan and charred kohlrabi and a beef tartare with geoduck XO. I skipped this section because of my limited budget.
Four main dishes were available, including:
- Lamb saddle with kumquat
- Halibut with nettle gnocchi
- Glazed maitake with celery root remoulade
I ultimately chose the fourth and bartender's favorite option: a pork coppa with white asparagus and an oyster emulsion. The dish was nicely sauced, and the serving size was just right.
The meat was juicy, and I liked the flavor, though it was a bit fattier than I prefer. I was particularly fond of the white asparagus, and could've eaten much more of it.
Dessert
Y'all know I love innovative desserts, so I reviewed the options with wide eyes. Atop the dessert menu was a baked Alaska made with mascarpone ice cream, candied walnuts, and carrot cake. Yes, you read that right-carrot cake! My decision was made.
Unlike Bern's and Delmonico's, Atoma's baked Alaska isn't flambeed tableside. However, on this occasion, I didn't mind missing the show. The dessert arrived at the bar toasted to perfection, with a few flakes of sea salt added on top.
Other options for that night included a mandarin orange pastry with sesame mousse, a sunchoke sundae with sunchoke chips and caramel, and a rotating selection of gelato.
Atoma delivers a thoughtful, intimate dining experience that reflects Seattle's culinary creativity. Chef Johnny Courtney's focus on seasonal ingredients and Pacific Northwest flavors makes this restaurant a standout-and one worth seeking out if you're craving something fresh, refined, and rooted in place.
