When Sushi by Scratch Restaurants opened its downtown Austin location in December 2024, it marked a full-circle moment for chefs Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee.
The couple had earned a Michelin star for Pasta|Bar in Los Angeles before moving to Austin in 2020. In the Lone Star State, they quickly grew a loyal following with Sushi|Bar. This omakase-style dining experience generated buzz and attracted celebrity diners.
After selling their stake in that East Austin project, they launched Sushi by Scratch Restaurants in cities across the United States. Once their three-year non-compete expired, they brought their omakase restaurant and new wave nigiri back to Austin—this time, entirely their own.
I didn't dine at Sushi|Bar until after the Lees had moved on. So, when I was invited to experience Sushi by Scratch at the new downtown Austin location, I jumped on it. This story reflects my honest impressions of the experience.
Table of Contents
Arriving for Dinner
A subtle sign marks the entrance to Sushi by Scratch at 603 Brazos Street, across from The Driskill. In a neighborhood replete with hidden speakeasies, it fits right in.
There are three dinner reservations per night (5 p.m., 7:15 p.m., and 9:30 p.m.), with space for 10 guests per seating. Diners are asked to arrive 30 minutes early to enjoy complimentary canapés and a drink.
I'd booked a 5 p.m. dinner for me and a friend who'd previously eaten at Sushi by Scratch at the Hyatt Regency Lost Pines Resort in Cedar Creek (about 23 miles east of Austin).
We met outside the restaurant at 4:30 p.m. and rang the bell. A host greeted us at the door and invited us into an antechamber.
Welcome Drink and Canapés
On one side of the room was a tiny bar backlit with red lights and a fridge displaying dry-aged fish and beef. We were each given a mussel and sake shooter, our first bite of the night. The host informed us of a caviar and black truffle upgrade available for our dinner, but we declined.
The other half of the room allowed 10 guests to sit for a welcome drink and the remaining canapés. Each pair of guests shared a small wooden table with a slow-melting wax candle.
The welcome cocktail, made with sake and Japanese whiskey, was cold, smooth, and refreshing. A non-alcoholic option was also available. Three more small bites were served: bluefin tuna, spot prawn in a creamy sauce, and Japanese custard with Wagyu.
Most (if not all) of the seafood served at Sushi by Scratch in Austin is flown in from Tokyo's famous Toyosu Market.
The Omakase Experience
At 5 p.m., we were led into the main dining room, which wasn't much larger than the bar area. The chef's counter accommodates eight guests facing forward and two more at the left edge. Diners are assigned seating.
The spacing between most seats is so tight that staff assist guests in getting situated. Once you and your chair are pushed forward, I recommend staying there until the meal ends.
There's no way to avoid the awkwardness involved in getting in and out. Those seated at the counter's far left side may have more room to maneuver. A bathroom is available should you need it.
How the 17-Course Format Works
Omakase, meaning "I leave it up to you" in Japanese, is a dining tradition in which the chef crafts a personalized, multi-course meal. Rooted in sushi counter culture, omakase began gaining popularity in Japan during the 1990s as diners sought more intimate, curated experiences.
It emphasizes seasonality, technique, and trust, allowing the chef to showcase their creativity while guiding guests through a progression of flavors.
Sixteen courses we had to look forward to at Sushi by Scratch in downtown Austin were on the wall before us. The 17th, a dessert, is not (it would throw off the balanced 4x4 arrangement).
The aesthetic of individual courses written on chalkboard-like panels felt familiar, as it was used in the Lees' first Austin restaurant, Sushi|Bar.
Sous chef Denni Cha introduced himself and the two chefs assisting him to his left and right. Throughout the meal, he announced each new course, sharing its ingredients and how it was prepared.
Drink Menu
I'd already begun flipping through the beverage menu at my seat when we were introduced to Joe, a sushi expert who would be serving our drinks.
Four house cocktails are offered, including a Red Seal of Shimoda (Japanese whiskey, ruby port, pomegranate, smoked honey, green tea salt rim) and a mocktail with Seedlip, yuzu, and honey. An Echigo Japanese pilsner was also available.
For this occasion, I was more drawn to the pairings:
- Premium Japanese sake (six pours) for $125.
- Beverage pairing (three sakes, two micro cocktails, and a Japanese ale) for $115.
- Japanese whiskey flight (six one-ounce pours) for $125.
My friend and I opted for the premium sake pairing, which was my first. I was relaxed and ready to let the good times flow.
Sushi and Sake Highlights
Courses 1-7
My first three courses at Sushi by Scratch in Austin were accompanied by a HeavenSake Junmai from Kyoto. Our first bite was dry-aged hamachi with corn pudding, sourdough breadcrumbs, house-fermented soy sauce, and fresh wasabi.
This was followed by my favorite nigiri of the night, a buttery scallop from Hokkaido. When given the chance, I ordered another (à la carte) at the end of the meal.
Course three was a Japanese sea bream brushed with sesame chili poznu, lemon, sea salt, and scallions.
My second sake was Mana 1751 True Vision by the Manatsuru Brewery, a microbrewery in Fukui, Japan. It had a whiskey-like flavor, unlike anything I've experienced with sake.
Next, dry-aged kanpachi with Texas olive oil, cuttlefish with cherry blossom petals imported from Kyoto, and New Zealand king salmon with matcha salt and pickled wasabi stem (a customer favorite).
I didn't catch the name of the third sake we tried. It was paired with a wonderful, orange-flavored shima aji (striped jack) and pen shell (tairagi), a type of mollusk.
Courses 8-16
The fourth sake poured was familiar to me: Wakatake "Onikoroshi" Junmai Daiginjo, also known as "Demon Slayer." Omuraya Brewing Company, founded in 1832, produces it. I first tried it at Fukumoto, another Austin sushi restaurant.
It was paired with crunchy wild-caught jellyfish, saba (mackerel) with garlic confit, and akami (lean bluefin tuna). At this point in our meal, I felt a mellow buzz from the sake, and I was still anticipating each new dish.
Poured from a metal bottle, Narutotai Ginjo Nama Genshu was my fifth sake of the night.
It accompanied heavy-hitters late in the menu:
- Toro (an uber delicious bite).
- A5 Wagyu beef that was torched in front of us.
- Bone marrow nigiri.
My sixth and final sake was the complex IWA 5 Junmai Daiginjo Assemblage 5, the only one to be poured into a wine glass. It was also the most costly, with 720ml bottles selling for $165 online.
It was accompanied by freshwater eel (unagi) lightly fried in the rendered bone marrow from the previous course. I don't usually order eel, but this rendition was another of my favorites at Sushi by Scratch in Austin.
Our final savory bite was triple-grade Hokkaido sea urchin, which had a sweet flavor and was consumed quickly by us all. (It's time-sensitive, so you're encouraged to eat it as soon as it's placed in front of you.)
Bonus Round
At this point in the meal, anyone still hungry for more was invited to order another nigiri a la carte. In the spirit of omakase, my friend left it up to one of the chefs to decide, while I requested the same Hokkaido scallop served in course two.
Dessert
The 17th and final course on the prix-fixe omakase menu is a dessert made by pastry chef Margarita Kallas-Lee.
It's a matcha bonbon with makrut lime, white chocolate, shortbread, and sesame seeds. It was paired with a hot green tea made with sake and plum wine (in place of water), smoked lavender, and yuzu.
The hot/cold combo was a strong finish to a two-hour omakase experience. I was a big fan of the craft ice cream chef Kallas-Lee was producing at Wolf and Wheat, her short-lived bakery in Austin.
Cost
The 17-course omakase at Sushi by Scratch in downtown Austin costs $195, and a 20% service charge is automatically added to bills. The price includes a welcome drink (alcoholic or not) and four canapés.
This brings the total to $234 before tax, drinks, and optional upcharges such as caviar and truffles. If you add a premium sake pairing for $125, it'd be $384 pre-tax.
Given the premium ingredients and staff-to-guest ratio, Sushi by Scratch in downtown Austin is a luxury dining experience. For most of us, it's the kind of place to take a sushi-loving friend or family member to celebrate a special occasion.
Final Thoughts
The omakase at Sushi by Scratch Restaurants in downtown Austin was an intimate experience that balanced the chefs' precision kitchen skills with playfulness. My favorite bites included the Hokkaido scallop, seared toro, and bone marrow-fried eel.
The six-pour premium sake pairing elevated each course, from citrusy junmais to a sophisticated IWA 5 Daiginjo. With just ten seats, a casual vibe, and an all-in commitment to craft, the meal felt like a dinner party hosted by chefs obsessed with detail.
Between the canapés, nigiri, sakes, and occasional sips of water, I was full by the end, but not overly so. While the cost is high, you get your money's worth, regardless of whether you indulge in a drink pairing.
Visit Sushi by Scratch – Austin
Address: 603 Brazos St, Austin, TX 78701
Website: sushibyscratchrestaurants.com
Reservations: Required; book via Tock.
Note: Guests are encouraged to arrive 30 minutes before their reservation time for welcome bites and drinks.
Dress code: None; you're encouraged to wear what's comfortable.
Parking: Limited street parking; nearby paid lots available.
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My meal at Sushi by Scratch Restaurants was hosted. As always, all opinions are my own. Photos were provided courtesy of the restaurant and used with their permission.
