At the intimate 15-seat Bar BenFiddich in Tokyo, Japanese mixologist Hiroyasu Kayama delivers the ultimate farm-to-bar experience.
Kayama spends each day growing fresh herbs on a family farm about 55 miles outside of Tokyo. Six nights a week, he commutes to Bar BenFiddich in West Shinjuku to put on a show for cocktail enthusiasts.
Bar BenFiddich is a regular on The World's 50 Best Bars lists, ranking #37 globally in 2023 and #4 on the Asia-specific list. The latter ranking earned him the honor of being named Japan's best bar.
Table of Contents
Inside Bar BenFiddich
Getting a Seat
The opportunity to witness Kayama's handiwork came during a five-day stay at the Hilton Tokyo. The hotel is conveniently located in the same neighborhood, which made it easy to stop by at 5 p.m. on a Tuesday.
It was a cold day in late February, which I hoped would work in our favor as walk-in customers. I could not figure out how to make a reservation for the cocktail bar in advance.
As we squeezed out of the tiny elevator on the 9th floor (which was little more than access to the bar and a fire escape), it became clear we wouldn't get in quickly. However, the host did offer to make a reservation for us the following night, which we gladly accepted.
On Wednesday, after spending the day touring the Imperial Palace and dining at Sezanne, a two-star Michelin restaurant, we returned to Bar BenFiddich at 5 p.m. With a reservation, we were promptly led inside and seated at the attractive walnut bar.
Passing through the front door, it felt like we were leaving modern Tokyo behind for a night on Kayama's farm. A mounted deer's head adorned the wall, and twigs hung from the ceiling above the small bar.
Cocktails
There's no menu to reference at Bar BenFiddich. You'll be asked what kinds of liquors, flavors, and drinks you enjoy, and Hiroyasu Kayama will use that to inform what he prepares.
Kel and I are gin fans, so we led off with what felt like a safe bet. My first drink was an herbaceous gin and tonic in a large, elegant two-piece glass (the top was a tool to lock in the scents of this aromatic cocktail).
A fruitier gin and pomegranate cocktail was delivered for Kel. We enjoyed our mixed drinks and the convivial atmosphere and didn't hesitate to order another round.
The glassware collection for Bar BenFiddich is the result of Kayama acquiring pieces abroad and having others custom-made.
My second drink was a tequila cocktail with coconut water, walnuts, and a coconut rim. Like the gin and tonic, this one arrived with a clear ice cube to keep it cold.
Kel's second drink was a strawberry rose martini in the same sexy stemware as my gin and tonic, minus the glass top. A bright red strawberry ice ball added visual interest.
We continued to enjoy our drinks and the warm atmosphere as we watched Hiroyasu Kayama develop drinks for the other patrons.
See also: French-Japanese Cuisine at Florilege
My third and final drink was a pomegranate and apple Brandy made with Calvados Pays d'Auge (France). It served as a fruity conclusion to our two-hour stay at Bar BenFiddich.
The tequila cocktail was my favorite of the five we tried. And while the unique drinks I've shared reflect our tastes, Kayama is known for making his own version of Campari using 13 ingredients, homemade absinthe, and other experimental liqueurs.
Our total for five cocktails came out to about 11,400 yen, or $85, a good deal given that similar-quality drinks can run $20-$25 apiece at cocktail bars in New York City.
Final Thoughts
In conclusion, Bar BenFiddich is more than just a favorite bar; it embodies passion, dedication, and craftsmanship.
Hiroyasu Kayama's commitment to using high-quality ingredients from his family's land transforms each cocktail into a unique, farm-to-glass experience.
The intimate setting, personal attention, and innovative drinks make it a must-visit for anyone seeking an authentic taste of Japanese whisky and mixology.
Whether you're a local or a tourist passing through, Bar BenFiddich offers a captivating journey through flavors that linger long after the last sip.
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Address: 9F (9th Floor), 1 Chome-13-7, Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku City, 160-0023 Tokyo, Japan
