On our last full day in Santiago, Kel and I embarked on a full-day tour of the coastal cities of Vina del Mar and Valparaiso. The trip's highlight was a walking tour through Valparaiso's colorful streets, which were filled with murals and graffiti.
After a scenic lunch at a rooftop restaurant, we concluded the day with a wine tasting in the Casablanca Valley on our drive back to Santiago. The day was an ideal blend of art, culture, food, and wine.
The day trip to Valparaiso offered the perfect opportunity for Kel to see a little of the Chilean coast before we flew back to the United States. It was also a chance to make up for the rainy weekend I spent there in 2012. The port city was rather dreary, and the wet weather wasn't conducive to leisurely art walks and scenic views.
Thankfully, the autumn weather was brilliant this time around. We had bright blue skies and plenty of sun for our day on Chile's Pacific Coast. In this article, I'll share what you can expect from a typical tour of Valparaiso from Santiago (we booked ours through Viator).
Table of Contents
Departing Santiago
Our guide, Nacho, created a WhatsApp group the day before our tour and shared the weather and pickup schedule with everyone. Kel and I were to be picked up first at 8 a.m. from the Mandarin Oriental. We made seven more stops at various Santiago hotels before departing the city.
It took about 45 minutes to collect everyone and another two hours to reach our first stop along the coast (including a coffee and bathroom break halfway there). Our first few stops along the coast were photo ops in the beach town of Vina del Mar.
Vina del Mar
Vina del Mar, which translates to "Vineyard of the Sea" in Spanish, is a city of grandeur. Its beautiful beaches, parks, and flower gardens have earned it the nickname "Garden City." The upscale resorts, palm-lined streets, and proximity to Valparaiso make it a sought-after vacation spot for Chileans and foreigners.
Vina del Mar is famous for its annual Vina del Mar International Song Festival, which started in 1960 and is the longest-running music festival in Latin America.
Flower Clock
Our first tour stop was to see the Flower Clock ("Reloj de Flores") created for the 1962 World Cup. Vina del Mar was one of several host cities. The Swiss designed and built the original clock mechanism, which is installed on a hill near Playa Caleta Abarca.
When vandals destroyed the clock in 2013, the city used the occasion to commission a new, more modern design by Relojes Olvera III Generacion in Mexico. Today, it remains an attractive landmark worth a quick look.
Moai
It was about a 10-minute drive east from the Flower Clock to our second stop, a moai statue from Easter Island outside Museo Fonck. The 9.5-foot-tall Moai del Ahu was donated by the Rapa Nui in 1951 and displayed in Vina del Mar.
Kel and I had just spent a week on Easter Island and seen dozens of similar statues made from volcanic rock. For visitors to Chile who can't make it out to Easter Island to see them in their original surroundings, the moai in Vina del Mar is the next best thing.
Valparaiso
Valparaiso, a vital port city in Chile, is steeped in history and charm. Its colorful hillside homes, funiculars, and rich maritime history earned it recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003.
"The colonial city of Valparaiso presents an excellent example of late 19th-century urban and architectural development in Latin America. In its natural amphitheatre-like setting, the city is characterized by a vernacular urban fabric adapted to the hillsides that are dotted with a great variety of church spires. It contrasts with the geometrical layout utilized in the plain. The city has well preserved its interesting early industrial infrastructures, such as the numerous 'elevators' on the steep hillsides."
UNESCO
Valparaiso boasts a blend of bohemian charm and artistic expression. The historic quarter's streets and buildings are a canvas on which incredible murals have been painted.
The city's labyrinthine alleys, unique architecture, and panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean make it a must-visit destination for those seeking an authentic and creative urban environment. But before we ascended the steep streets of Valparaiso for an art walk, Nacho gave us a chance to sink our toes on a sandy beach.
The Beach and Fish Market
It took us about 20 minutes to drive from the moai statue in Vina del Mar to the beach, Playa Diego Portales (aka Playa Caleta Portales). While we only spent a few minutes there, I'm glad it was a stop on our itinerary, as I hadn't visited the beach during my prior trip to Valparaiso. I imagine it's a popular spot for sunsets.
We also walked through the adjacent fish market, starting with the piers in the back, where sea lions gather for whatever trimmings are thrown their way.
Once we returned to our van, Oscar, the driver, drove past Plaza Sotomayor, where a military event was taking place, and up the steep streets of Valparaiso to the historic neighborhoods.
Starting at Plaza San Luis, Nacho led us on a 2.5-hour walking tour that included a little over one hour to get lunch on our own.
Street Art Tour
Valparaiso's street art scene began to flourish in the late 1990s, following the end of Chile's dictatorship, which opened the door to greater artistic freedom and expression.
The city's tangled streets and hillside neighborhoods became a canvas for local and international artists, turning Valparaiso into one of the world's most renowned hubs for urban art.
Street art gained popularity for its bold and vibrant aesthetics and role in telling the city's stories, reflecting its social and political struggles, and celebrating its culture. Today, murals and graffiti line nearly every corner, making Valparaiso a living gallery that continues to inspire and evolve.
It was a luxury to have Nacho lead us through the streets and alleys on a warm, clear day, pointing out the best murals along the way.
This contrasted my first visit when rainy weather muted the city's vibrant walls and buildings. I also didn't join a tour then and wandered alone, hoping to stumble across cool art.
Previous street art tours in Mexico City and Buenos Aires have taught me that guided experiences are worth the money. Not only are you guaranteed to see some of the most incredible murals, but you can rest assured it's a more efficient use of your time.
Not to mention, all my guides, including Nacho in Valparaiso, are knowledgeable about the history of their city's art scenes and the local artists who made a name for themselves while contributing to the community.
Among the many painted walls were cafes, restaurants, ice cream shops, and souvenir vendors. Had we been spending the weekend in Valparaiso, I'd have enjoyed wandering around, stopping in these places, and supporting the local economy.
We enjoyed scenic views of the Pacific Ocean from outlooks like Mirador Paseo Atkinson. Numerous commercial and naval ships could be seen in Valparaiso Bay.
Nacho also showed us the inner workings of the Cerro Concepcion funicular, which opened in 1883 to assist residents in climbing and descending a steep hill. It's one of 16 historic funiculars that still exist. Collectively, they're a National Monument of Chile.
At about 1 p.m., Nacho gave us some restaurant recommendations, and we had about an hour and 25 minutes to eat and explore.
Lunch
I believe El Terrat was one of Nacho's recommendations, and I'm so glad we took it. The rooftop offered a spectacular view across the bay toward Vina del Mar. And given that they cater to tourists, I found the prices quite reasonable.
The menu offers Mediterranean food, and I was pretty pleased with my choice of salmon tartare with avocado for 13,800 pesos (about $14). Kel got steak with a hearty side of vegetables. El Terrat also offers paella and a variety of fish and meat dishes.
In the interest of time and variety, I chose to skip dessert at the restaurant and buy something from one of the local ice cream shops or bakeries.
My choice? A giant alfajor covered in coconut shavings. Alfajors are a traditional Argentine cookie. At their most basic, two shortbread-type cookies sandwich a dulce de leche spread.
They're best from a bakery but can also be found for sale in convenience and grocery stores. I became a big fan during my two months of traveling through Argentina (which preceded my first visit to Santiago and Valparaiso).
After reuniting with Nacho and the tour group, we took the 1902 Reina Victoria funicular down the hillside. Our tour bus driver was waiting for us at the bottom. From there, it was about a 45-minute drive to our last stop of the day for a wine tasting.
Casablanca Valley
Situated between the Pacific Coast and Santiago, the Casablanca Valley has emerged as one of Chile's most important wine regions. It's mainly known for its cool-climate varietals, such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Viticulture in the valley began in the 1980s when winemakers recognized the region's distinctive combination of coastal breezes and morning fog, which create ideal conditions for growing crisp, aromatic wines.
Today, the Casablanca Valley is celebrated for its boutique wineries and innovative winemaking techniques, making it a popular destination for wine enthusiasts worldwide.
Wine Tasting
Our Valparaiso tour concluded with a wine tasting at Emiliana Organic Vineyards. I'm glad we stopped at this winery on our way back to Santiago, as it's notable for a few reasons.
Emiliana was the first organic winery in Chile and has since grown into the world's largest. In 1998, the winery's owners began redeveloping the conventional vineyards on the property using organic and biodynamic agriculture.
The winery's website features a timeline of notable accomplishments. Most recently, Emiliana became Rengerative Organic Certified.
Our wine tasting began on the rear-covered deck with pours of the 2023 Adobe Reserve Sauvignon Blanc and 2022 Novas Carmenere (Colchagua Valley).
We entered the attractive tasting room and shop, which offered a window into the beautiful Casablanca Valley. While chatting with one of the staff at the bar about how Kel only likes sweet wines, she offered her a taste of one. I mentioned that I enjoy Chardonnay, and she also poured me a sample.
I liked all three wines I tried during our visit, and I'm going to look for Emiliana Organic Vineyards wines in the U.S.
Alpacas
After we'd finished with the wines, I joined Kel in taking a closer look at the resident alpacas. As part of Emiliana's commitment to biodynamic practices, they maintain "alpacas, horses, cows, birds, chickens, coots, and sheep" to interact with the native flora.
Of course, most tourists love alpacas for their cute faces and goofy grins. And a few in our tour group took pleasure in feeding them leaves. Emiliana's alpaca welcomed the attention with enthusiasm.
At 4 p.m., we rolled out of the winery and drove back to Santiago. As Kel and I were the first to be picked up, we were also the last to be dropped off. It took about an hour and 45 minutes from the winery to reach the entrance to the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, where we began the day.
Overall, it was a fantastic day out. Despite spending a lot of time driving in the tour van, I saw some new sights and gained a much better appreciation for the beauty of Valparaiso. The wine tasting on the return trip was a bonus.
To book your full-day city tour from Santiago to Valparaiso, visit Viator.
