Ever the pastry fan, I made it my mission to seek the best bakeries in Copenhagen during my visit.
Fresh from Sweden, where I adopted the fika tradition of coffee and pastry, I was excited to see what the Danes had to offer.
Copenhagen's restaurant scene has been red-hot since Noma rose to prominence.
As alums of one of the world's best restaurants strike out on their own, some have opened bakeries in Copenhagen. Let's dive into the buttery goodness they've created.
Where to Eat Pastries
1. Juno the Bakery
Emil Glaser, a former pastry chef at Noma, opened Juno the Bakery in December 2017 in the upscale Østerbro neighborhood.
This little bakery with a big reputation sees a steady stream of customers throughout the day. As only a few seats are inside, most take their pastry to go.
I walked over to Juno the Bakery at about 4 p.m. on a Wednesday, following an epic birthday lunch at Geranium.
I ordered a cardamom bun and pistachio rose croissant, both heavenly.
In addition to croissants and cardamom buns, Juno the Bakery is known for seasonal pastries.
The Swedish semla is made with cardamom, marzipan, almonds, and whipped cream. Saffron buns are popular in December.
Hours: Open Tuesday to Saturday from 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Århusgade 48, Østerbro, Copenhagen, instagram.com/juno_the_bakery/
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2. Hart Bageri
Richard Hart is a British-born baker who honed his skills as the head baker at the acclaimed Tartine bakery in San Francisco.
Noma's René Redzepi recruited Hart to open a bakery in Copenhagen.
The bakery would supply Hart's famous sourdough bread to the restaurant.
In September 2018, after relocating his family to Copenhagen, he opened Hart Bageri in the Frederiksberg district.
Everything in the bakery is made by hand during daylight hours.
Customers get the freshest possible pastries and bread and a chance to see the bakers in action.
I began the day after my birthday at Hart Bageri with a small sausage-wrapped croissant with fennel and a cardamom croissant.
Both were delicious, and I didn't want to leave the small bakery, so I approached the counter again and asked for a recommendation.
The gluten-free chocolate cake was calling me, but it was the cheesecake that the gentleman suggested, and I ordered accordingly.
My understanding of this dessert (having grown up in New York) was shattered when I took a bite of Hart Bageri's cheesecake.
The texture was silky smooth, like a mousse. This style is known as Basque cheesecake; it's from Spain and is exquisite!
Hours: Open Monday to Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Gl. Kongevej 109, Frederiksberg, Copenhagen, hartbageri.com
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3. Andersen & Maillard
Andersen & Maillard is a coffee roaster and bakery opened by Milton Abel, another former Noma pastry chef.
I walked here from Hart Bageri, stopping to visit Hans Christian Andersen's grave in the nearby cemetery along the way.
Of the bakeries in Copenhagen I've listed so far, Andersen & Maillard is the most spacious. It felt more like I was in a cafe than a bakery.
I was here to try the incredible-looking chocolate croissant filled with chocolate ganache, and it alone was worth the trip.
The espresso-glazed croissant didn't do much for me, though.
They kick it up a notch in the warmer months by serving soft ice cream in the espresso croissant.
Now that's something I'd want to try after my experience with gelato and bread in Bologna.
Hours: Open daily from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Nørrebrogade 62, Nørrebro, Copenhagen, andersenmaillard.dk
4. Mirabelle Bakery
A few blocks north of Andersen & Maillard is Mirabelle Bakery, which belongs to Italian chef Christian Puglisi's family of restaurants.
At this point, it may be no surprise that Puglisi is another Noma alum.
I first experienced Mirabelle's baked goods a few days earlier, as their sourdough bread is served at Relae.
On my last full day in Copenhagen, I stopped by to try a pain au chocolat (my favorite).
The dough was beautifully layered and baked to perfection. The outer layers flaked away as I tore into the soft center.
Unlike the other bakeries on this list, Mirabelle is also a restaurant, serving breakfast and brunch from 8:30 am to 11:30 am daily (until 3 pm on Saturday and Sunday).
Fresh herbs and vegetables are picked daily from Farm of Ideas, Puglisi's organic farm 50 km north of the city.
Hours: Open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Guldbergsgade 29, Nørrebro, Copenhagen, mirabelle-bakery.dk
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5. Conditori La Glace
Centrally located and dating back to October 8, 1870, Conditori La Glace is the oldest bakery in Denmark.
The historic patisserie features original furniture from 1890 and a 1924 interior.
Customers order from the extensive menu at a counter near the entrance and can sit anywhere.
The HC Hat with caramel mousse, lemon-caramel ganache, and chocolate sponge cake was divine.
The Harmonie with two pistachio macarons, fresh raspberries, and pistachio cream looked fancy; however, I quickly made a mess trying to eat it.
Hours: Open Monday to Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Skoubogade 3, Copenhagen, laglace.dk
The best bakeries in Copenhagen have a lot in common: pastry chefs who worked at Noma or partnered with them.
As the bakery scene continues to expand, so do the options for finding a well-executed and tasty pastry.
While my top five list will help any first-time visitor get their bearings, there are plenty more places to consider.
When I return to Copenhagen, these are the bakeries I'll check out next:
- Lille Bakery - opened in the summer of 2018. This bakery quickly gained a loyal fanbase thanks in part to a Kickstarter campaign. Located in the Refshaleøen neighborhood, a few steps from Amass.
- alice - known for their croissants, this bakery/ice cream shop is the brainchild of Anders Lorenz, another Noma alum.
- Democratic Coffee - more cafe than a bakery, Democratic Coffee produces fresh (and well-reviewed) pastries daily.